Shooting, Processing, and Scanning Film
There are several approaches to managing images captured on film. Some of them are traditional and will be undertaken entirely in the darkroom to develop film and produce a print or transparency. For many photographers, the answer will be some combination of analog and digital processes. These can be conducted entirely at home, entirely through commercial services, or a combination of the two.
Shooting Film
The skills required in everyday digital and analog photography are similar, but pinhole photography demands understanding and executing reciprocity compensation. By design and formulation film has a pretty straightforward relationship with light for the most common shooting situations: If you cut the light on the subject in half, you need to double the light available to the film by either adjusting the aperture of the lens or the shutter speed. But at some point, cutting the light to the subject in half might require you to quadruple the light available to the film. With pinhole photography you only have one aperture so, once the film is loaded into the camera, you can only adjust the time that the shutter is open.
During daylight hours, with ISO 100 film, a pinhole camera can require a shutter speed of anywhere from 1 second to 11 seconds (looking at my logs). With the ZeroHorizon 612 (f/160) the following times are examples of exposure increased required to compensate for reciprocity failure with Kodak TMax 100 film (a modern film with a very flat compensation curve). The first time is based on a light meter reading, and the second compensates for reciprocity failure:
3s → 4s | 6s → 9s | 26s → 43s | 51s → 1m:33s | 3m:25s → 7m:35s | 27m:18s → 1h:23m
Processing Film
You can send the film out, or you can do it yourself.
Send it out: A few years ago, thousands of film mini-labs began vanishing from drug stores, many camera stores, warehouse stores, and big retailers like Walmart. Digital photography, especially through smart phones had so much taken over that all these retailers dropped film processing and concentrated on making prints and albums. Around the Omaha area, a local camera retailer processes film, but it takes a full calendar week to get it back. A business in Kansas City has one-day turnaround, but there is shipping time (or a long drive) involved.
There are several well established online photo labs. These can be costly (if you are using 120 roll film you’ve already spent $6+): One charges the same price to just develop the film as they do for developing and making prints. If I had them do develop and scanning film from my 6 x 12 pinhole camera, it would cost between $20 and $30 a roll.
Even if you have them develop the film and get their cheapest scanning option to use as proofs, you’ll have to sent the selected frames back to the lab for higher resolution scanning. Consider that if are deciding whether or not to do your own scanning (next topic).
Do it yourself. There are kits to develop color film, but you should be pretty confident with black and white processing before you try color. The most common color negative chemistry, C-41, is demanding. For example, you must keep the developer at 37.8°C ± 0.15°C, and the rest of the chemistry at 24 – 42°C. Oh.
Developing black and white is more manageable. The typical chemical temperatures are 68°F, which you can maintained in the kitchen sink.

You need some stuff: The chemistry can be ordered online, though some is classified by DOT as ORM-D (no air shipment). You’ll also need a developing tank with one or more reels (click on the photo above), a large changing bag, funnels, graduated pitchers, a thermometer, a closet garment bag for drying film (keeps the dust off wet film), etc., etc. You can get an app for your smart phone/tablet that times each step of the developing process. If you haven’t developed film before, see if there are film photography or darkroom classes at your local continuing education center or community college.
The Massive Dev Chart is a section of the DigitalTruth web site and has exhaustive information on B&W film and chemistry.
I decided to stick to B&W film for now and do my own developing. It had been over 20 years since I had “souped” and film (and the last time for 120 film was probably 1977), but everything came back to me with the first roll.
Scanning Film
This presents a more difficult choice. I was going to let the local camera store scan my film, but they pointed over to the scanner they use for 120 film and it was a Canon 9000F MKII flat-bed scanner — $165 on Amazon. It doesn’t take a math genius…and I already had a license for better scanning software. (I have a much better Epson flat-bed and a dedicated 35mm film scanner in storage with my household goods, but didn’t want to wait six to eight months.) A dedicated medium film scanner (to take both 35mm and 120 film) will cost between $1,800 and $2,000. A 35mm film scanner might cost between $350 and $500. Because the performance claims of the manufacturers are a bit opaque, serious research will be required.
Film scanning is not plug-and-play. The Canon 9000F is just barely adequate for the 120 B&W scans, but it gets the job done. I had to make many scans of the same negatives to come up with satisfactory settings. And I’m still working my way up the learning curve.
But (you might ask) is there a little more back story on my wandering into film?
We’ll get to that next…